Octopus Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern 4

 

HELLO, DEAR CRAFTERS!

I'm happy to welcome you to my octopus crochet master class.

A few rules for using this master class:

• You are free to use the toy made from this master class as you wish, including selling it online.
• Please credit the author when showcasing the toy. I will be very grateful to you.
• This master class is intended solely for your personal use.
• This pattern does not include crochet lessons and assumes that you already have basic crochet skills.

List of required materials:

• Yarn in the main color (I use Himalaya Dolphin Baby). Any color will work, and you can use leftover yarn.
• White felt circles (20mm)
• Crochet hook No. 4.5 (this is what I use)
• Stuffing
• 10mm safety eyes or any other eyes
• Needle, stitch marker, scissors, black embroidery thread
• Decorative bow
• Glue
• Keychain attachment

When using these materials, the finished toy will be about 8 cm tall.

Abbreviations:

• Sc - single crochet
• Inc - increase (2 sc in one stitch)
• Dec - decrease (2 sc together)
• Ch - chain stitch
• MR - magic ring
• Sl st - slip stitch

Stuff as you go. Crochet everything in a spiral.

Head - Body

1. 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. (Inc) x6. (12)
3. (Sc, Inc) x6. (18)
4. (2 sc, Inc) x6. (24)
5. - 9. 24 sc. (24) for 5 rows
6. (2 sc, Dec) x6. (18)

Insert eyes between the 7th and 8th rows, or count 3 rows up from the bottom.

Tentacles

Crochet the tentacles through the front loops of the 10th row. Chain 4, sc in the second chain from the hook, sc 3 more times, then sl st into the next front loop. Repeat around the row.

Finishing the Body

1. Using the remaining back loops, (Sc, Dec) x6. (12)
2. (Dec) x6. (6)

Close the hole and weave in the ends.

Embroider eyelashes, mouth. Attach the decorative bow and keychain attachment. If you don't have a keychain, you can make a loop using a chain of the desired length.

Octopus Tentacle Crochet Instructions

After completing the body, you will need to crochet the tentacles. Follow these steps:

1. Work into the front loops of the 10th row.
2. Chain 4, then single crochet in the second chain from the hook. Make 3 more single crochets along the chain.
3. Slip stitch into the next front loop on the body.
4. Repeat this process to create tentacles all the way around the octopus's body.

Final Steps for the Body

1. After completing the tentacles, use the back loops of the 10th row and crochet (1 sc, 1 decrease) 6 times around. (12)
2. For the last round, decrease around. (6)

Pull the hole closed and weave in the ends neatly.

Finishing Touches

• Use black thread to embroider small eyelashes and a smile onto the face.
• Attach the decorative bow with glue, or sew it onto the head.
• If you want to turn this into a keychain, attach the keychain loop to the top of the head. If you don’t have a keychain, you can crochet a chain of the desired length and sew it onto the top.

And that’s it! Your cute little crocheted octopus is ready to go!

Author: Tatyana Azizulova

Hair of doll free pattern

 

Attaching Hair (Mini Tutorial)

You can make hair using boucle yarn, mohair, or regular wool. For this explanation, I specifically used non-boucle yarn, and the color of the wig is different from the strands of hair to make it clearer.

Step 1: Crochet the Cap

The yarns are different, and the crochet tension is also different.

• 6 sc in a magic ring
• (1 sc, 1 inc) × 6 (18)
• (2 sc, 1 inc) × 6 (24)
• (3 sc, 1 inc) × 6 (30) and continue until the circle is 4-7 cm in diameter (depending on the size of the head).

Then crochet without any increases. Try the cap on and finish crocheting when it fits. Pin the cap in place and sew it to the head. First, stitch along the edge with a backstitch. Then, sew a couple of circles closer to the center. Remove the pins. I sew the cap with regular sewing thread in the same color as the cap.

Step 2: Attaching the Hair

1. Use pins to mark where the hair strands will go. The distance between them is about 1-1.5 cm (Figure 3).
2. Thread the yarn into a needle without cutting it from the skein.
3. In Figure 4, the principle of attaching the strands is shown. Choose the hair length to your taste.

Follow the photos for the rest of the steps.

Attaching Hair (Mini Tutorial)

Once again, you can use boucle yarn, mohair, or regular wool for the hair. For clarity, I’ve used a different yarn for the wig and the strands. Start by crocheting a cap with the steps mentioned above, and follow the same attachment method described in the tutorial.

Snowflake doll Free Crochet Pattern

 

Materials:

• Wool in skin and white colors
• 4.5 mm crochet hook
• Crochet markers
• Coffee-brown DMC 938 floss and salmon DMC 3712
• 8mm safety eyes
• Stuffing
• Size: approximately 19 cm

Abbreviations:

• Ch - chain
• MR - magic ring
• Sc - single crochet
• Hdc - half double crochet
• Inc - increase (2 stitches in one)
• Dec - decrease (2 stitches together)

Note: The doll is crocheted in a spiral without joining rows, so using markers to indicate the beginning of each row is recommended. The author is left-handed, so the hook placement and direction of crochet in the photos may look reversed.

Head (Skin Color):

1. In MR, crochet 5 sc.
2. Inc in each st (10)
3. *1 sc, inc* repeat 5 times (15)
4. *2 sc, inc* repeat 5 times (20)
5. *3 sc, inc* repeat 5 times (25)
6. *4 sc, inc* repeat 5 times (30)
7. Rounds 7-12: 30 sc
8. *4 sc, dec* repeat 5 times (25)
9. *3 sc, dec* repeat 5 times (20)
10. *2 sc, dec* repeat 5 times (15)
11. Stuff the head.
12. *1 sc, dec* repeat 5 times (10)
13. 5 decreases (5), fasten off, weave the remaining tail through the stitches to close the hole.

Attach the eyes between rounds 12 and 13, leaving 5 stitches between them.

Hat (White Color):

1. In MR, crochet 5 sc.
2. Inc in each st (10)
3. *1 sc, inc* repeat 5 times (15)
4. *2 sc, inc* repeat 5 times (20)
5. *3 sc, inc* repeat 5 times (25)
6. *4 sc, inc* repeat 5 times (30)
7. Rounds 7-12: 30 sc

Insert the head into the hat. Stuff as needed to ensure the hat fits snugly. After the decreases, stuffing the hat will no longer be possible.

Shirt:

1. *3 sc, dec* repeat 6 times (24)
2. *2 sc, dec* repeat 6 times (18)

Snowflake:

Crochet in a circle, like a doily. Since it won’t be stiff, you can add a special thread like "snowflake" yarn to the main yarn or starch it. The pattern is suitable for both left- and right-handed crocheters. Continue without cutting the yarn for the last row of the hat.

Arms (White):

1. In MR, crochet 6 sc.
2. *1 sc, inc* repeat 3 times (9)
3. 3-sc cluster in the first st, dec, *1 sc, dec* repeat 2 times (6)
4. Rounds 4-10: 6 sc

Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Legs/Body (White):

1. In MR with pink yarn, crochet 5 sc.
2. 5 increases (10)
3. 3 increases, sc to the end of the row (13)
4. *2 dec, crochet in back loops only* repeat 3 times, sc to the end (10)
5. Rounds 5-8: 10 sc

Stuff the legs but not too firmly. Fasten off after round 8 of the first leg, then crochet the second leg and join them to form the body.

Assembly:

• To allow the arms to rotate, insert special joint rings.
• If you're simply sewing the arms, gather the open edge of each arm before attaching them.
• Attach the head to the body, sewing around the neck tightly.
• Secure the thread and hide the tail inside the body.

Embroidering the Face:

Use DMC floss for the facial features. For the doll, the yarn used is TLC Cotton Plus (beige) and Lion Brand Wool (white).

Feet/Body (White):

1. In MR with pink yarn, crochet 5 sc.
2. 5 increases (10)
3. 3 increases, sc to the end of the row (13)
4. *2 dec, crochet in back loops only* repeat 3 times, sc to the end (10)
5. Rounds 5-8: 10 sc

Stuff the legs but not too firmly. Finish off after round 8 of the first leg. Then crochet the second leg and join them to form the body.

Body:

1. Join the two legs together with 4 chains between them. Crochet around both legs to form the body (20 stitches).
2. Round 10: 2 increases, 16 sc, 2 increases (24)
3. Round 11: 24 sc
4. Round 12: 2 decreases, 16 sc, 2 decreases (20)
5. Rounds 13-15: 20 sc
6. Round 16: *2 sc, dec* repeat 5 times (15)
7. Start stuffing the body.
8. Round 17: *1 sc, dec* repeat 5 times (10)
9. Round 18: 10 sc

Stuff the body and finish off, leaving a long tail to sew the head to the body.

Assembly:

• To make the arms movable, insert special rotating joint rings.
• If not using joints, gather the open end of the arms before sewing them to the body.
• Attach the head to the body by sewing around the neck area. Tighten the stitches firmly, so the head is securely attached.
• Secure the thread and hide the ends inside the body.

Face Embroidery:

Use DMC floss to embroider the face details. The yarns used for the doll are TLC Cotton Plus in beige and Lion Brand Wool in white.

Santa Claus Free crochet pattern 4

 

Required Materials:

1. One skein of red Himalaya Dolphin yarn
2. Half a skein of white Himalaya Dolphin yarn
3. Half a skein of milk-colored Himalaya Dolphin yarn
4. 14 mm safety eyes
5. Half a skein of white YarnArt Mink or Alize Softy
6. A little bit of yellow and black yarn
7. Stuffing
8. 3-3.5 mm crochet hook

Start with white yarn:

1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
5. Rounds 5-6: 24 sc

Change to red yarn:

7. Rounds 7-13: 24 sc

From the second leg, chain 4, connect to the first leg with a slip stitch. 24 + 4 + 24 + 4 = 56

14. Rounds 14-19: 56 sc
15. (6 sc, dec) x7 (49)

Change to yellow yarn (do not cut the red yarn):

21. Rounds 21-23: 49 sc

Change back to red yarn (cut the yellow yarn):

24. (5 sc, dec) x7 (42)
25. Rounds 25-27: 42 sc
26. (4 sc, dec) x7 (35)
27. Rounds 29-30: 35 sc
28. (3 sc, dec) x7 (28)
29. Round 32: 28 sc
30. (2 sc, dec) x7 (21)
31. Round 34: 21 sc

Change to the main milk color yarn:

35. Round 35: 21 sc
36. 21 inc (42)
37. Round 37: 42 sc
38. (5 sc, inc) x7 (49)
39. Round 39: 49 sc
40. (6 sc, inc) x7 (56)
41. Rounds 41-46: 56 sc
42. (6 sc, dec) x7 (49)
43. (5 sc, dec) x7 (42)
44. Round 49: 42 sc
45. (4 sc, dec) x7 (35)
46. (3 sc, dec) x7 (28)
47. (2 sc, dec) x7 (21)

Insert eyes at rounds 46-47

Distance between eyes: 4-5 stitches

Nose:

1. 5 sc in magic ring
2. 5 sc

Sew close to the eyes.

Face Shaping:

Insert the needle at point 1, pull through at point 2, then from point 2 to point 3, and back to point 1. Repeat several times and then do the same for the other eye.

Arms:

Start with white yarn:

1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. Rounds 4-6: 18 sc
5. Bobble stitch (4 dc in one stitch with a common top), 17 sc (18). For the other arm, start with 17 sc, then the bobble stitch.
6. Round 8: 18 sc
7. (4 sc, dec) x3 (15)

Change to red yarn:

10. 15 sc in back loops only (later crochet around the remaining loops)
11. Rounds 11-20: 15 sc

Stuff only the palm. Fold in half and crochet 7 sc through both layers. Sew close to the head.

Belt:

Using black yarn:

Chain 25 and sew in a square shape onto the yellow stripe.

Pom-pom for Hat:

Using white yarn:

1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. Rounds 4-5: 18 sc
5. (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)
6. 6 dec

Stuff the pom-pom.

Beard:

Cut the yarn into equal small pieces and attach two strands into one stitch. Trim the beard, leaving the front slightly longer.

Hat:

Start with white yarn:

1. Chain 57 (adjust according to the head circumference of your Santa Claus), join in a circle, and crochet in the round.
2. Rounds 2-4: 56 sc

Change to red yarn:

5. Rounds 5-11: 56 sc
6. (6 sc, dec) x7 (49)
7. Round 13: 49 sc
8. (5 sc, dec) x7 (42)
9. Round 15: 42 sc
10. (4 sc, dec) x7 (35)
11. Rounds 17-18: 35 sc
12. (3 sc, dec) x7 (28)
13. Rounds 20-21: 28 sc
14. (2 sc, dec) x7 (21)
15. Rounds 23-25: 21 sc

Santa’s Belt:

Using black yarn:

Chain 25 and sew it onto the yellow stripe on the body, forming a square.

Pom-pom for the Hat:

Using white yarn:

1. 6 sc in magic ring (6)
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
4. Rounds 4-5: 18 sc
5. (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)
6. 6 dec

Stuff the pom-pom and attach it to the tip of the hat.

Beard:

Cut the yarn into equal lengths and attach two strands per stitch, creating the beard. Trim the beard as desired, leaving the front slightly longer for a fuller effect.

Hat:

Start with white yarn:

1. Chain 57 (adjust the chain based on the head circumference of your Santa), join in the round, and crochet in continuous rounds.
2. Rounds 2-4: 56 sc

Switch to red yarn:

5. Rounds 5-11: 56 sc
6. (6 sc, dec) x7 (49)
7. Round 13: 49 sc
8. (5 sc, dec) x7 (42)
9. Round 15: 42 sc
10. (4 sc, dec) x7 (35)
11. Rounds 17-18: 35 sc
12. (3 sc, dec) x7 (28)
13. Rounds 20-21: 28 sc
14. (2 sc, dec) x7 (21)
15. Rounds 23-25: 21 sc
16. (1 sc, dec) x7 (14)
17. 7 dec

Once the hat is complete, sew the pom-pom to the top.

16. (1 sc, dec) x7 (14)
17. 7 dec

Sew the pom-pom to the hat.

Butterfly's Free Pattern

 

Abbreviations for Common Stitches:

• CH: Chain stitch
• X: Single crochet
• T: Half double crochet
• F: Double crochet
• E: Treble crochet
• G: Double treble crochet
• V: Increase (2 stitches in the same stitch)
• A: Decrease (2 stitches together)
• K: Skip stitch
• B: 3 double crochet popcorn stitch
• P: 4 double crochet popcorn stitch
• Q: 5 double crochet popcorn stitch
• BLO: Back loop only
• FLO: Front loop only
• M: 3 stitches together
• SL: Slip stitch

Tools and Materials:

• Hook Size: 3.5mm
• Materials: Yarn of your choice

Spring Insect Crochet Pattern

Head and Body (Body Starts First)

1. R1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. R2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 3. (9)
3. R3: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 3. (12)
4. R4: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 3. (15)
5. R5: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 3. (18)
6. R6: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 3. (21)
7. R7-R9: 21 sc. (21)
8. R10: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 3. (18)
9. Use dark brown yarn for the body in rows R1, R2, R3, R4, R7, and R10.
10. R11: 6 sc, chain 7, turn, 3 sc in FLO, 4 sl st (arms), 6 sc, chain 7, turn, 3 sc in FLO, 4 sl st (arms), 6 sc. (18)
11. R12: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (12)
12. Switch to the head color:
13. R13: 12 sc. (12)
14. R14: 12 inc. (24)
15. R15: 11 sc, 4 inc, 9 sc. (28)

Head and Body (Continued)

14. R16-R17: 28 sc. (28)
15. R18: 9 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc. (24)
16. R19: 24 sc. (24)
17. R20: (1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc) x 6. (18)
18. R21: 18 sc. (18)
19. Install the eyes between R18 and R19, spaced 5 stitches apart.
20. R22: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (12)
21. R23: 6 dec. (6)
22. Stuff the head and body, then finish off and fasten off.

Face Embroidery:

1. Use white fluffy yarn to embroider highlights on the outside of the eyes.
2. Between rounds 17 and 18, embroider the nose between the eyes (nose length is 1 stitch, sew 2 stitches).
3. Use pink thread to embroider a round mouth, 2 stitches in length.
4. Use black thread (1 stitch long) to embroider the eyelids and eyebrows in a round shape, leaving a distance of 3 stitches between them.
5. Use fluffy pink yarn to embroider the cheeks in a round shape (2 stitches in length).

Antennae (Make 2):

Insert at the junction of R22-R23:

1. R1: Chain 5, turn, 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sl st.

Finish off and weave in the ends.

Ladybug Head Shell (Black Color)

1. R1: 7 sc in a magic ring. (7)
2. R2: 7 inc. (14)
3. R3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 7. (21)
4. R4: (1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc) x 7. (28)
5. R5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 7. (35)
6. R6-R7: 15 sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, 15 sc. (35)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Butterfly Wings (Make 2):

1. R1: Chain 7, turn, in 2nd ch from hook: 2 sc, 2 hdc, dc, (5 dc), dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc. Chain 4, turn, 3 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 sc.
2. Continue working on the other side of the initial chain: 2 sc, sl st.

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly

1. Head and Body: Sew the head and body together.
2. Face: Embroider the facial features as described above.
3. Antennae: Attach the antennae to the head at R22-R23.
4. Ladybug Shell: Attach the shell onto the head.
5. Butterfly Wings: Sew the wings onto the body at the back.

Optional: Decorate the ladybug wings with black beads or embroidery to create spots.

The Pumpkin Bunny Free Pattern

 

Stitches Key:

• Ch: Chain
• X: Single crochet
• T: Half double crochet
• F: Double crochet
• A: Invisible decrease
• V: Increase (2 sc in 1 stitch)

Head (Main Color)

1. R1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. R2: 6 inc. (12)
3. R3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (18)
4. R4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (24)
5. R5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (30)
6. R6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (36)
7. R7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (42)
8. R8: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (48)
9. R9: (7 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (54)
10. R10-21: 54 sc. (54)
11. R22: (7 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (48)
12. R23: (6 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (42)
13. R24: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (36)
14. R25: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (30)
15. R26: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (24)
16. R27: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (18)

Stuff the head and shape it as needed.

Ears (Main Color)

1. R1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. R2: 6 sc. (6)
3. R3: 6 inc. (12)
4. R4: 12 sc. (12)
5. R5: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (18)
6. R6: 18 sc. (18)
7. R7-16: 18 sc. (18)
8. R17: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (12)
9. R18-21: 12 sc. (12)
10. R22: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (6)

Stuff the ears lightly and sew them to the head between rows 4 and 5.

Arms (Main Color)

1. R1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. R2: 6 sc. (6)
3. R3: 6 inc. (12)
4. R4: 12 sc. (12)
5. R5: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (18)
6. R6-13: 18 sc. (18)
7. R14: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (12)
8. R15-16: 12 sc. (12)

Leave a long tail for sewing. Fold the open end of the arm and sew it closed, then attach the arms to the body.

Legs (Main Color)

1. R1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. R2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2. (8)
3. R3-15: 8 sc. (8)
4. R16: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 4. (6)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the legs to the lower part of the body.

Body (Main Color)

1. R1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. R2: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 2. (8)
3. R3: 8 sc. (8)
4. R4: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (12)
5. R5: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (18)
6. R6: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (24)
7. R7: 24 sc. (24)
8. R8: (6 sc, 1 dec) x 3. (21)
9. R9: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 3. (18)
10. R10-13: 18 sc. (18)
11. R14: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 4. (12)
12. R15-16: 12 sc. (12)
13. R17: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 4. (6)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Sew the body to the head.

Overalls (Contrasting Color)

1. Chain 42 and join to form a circle.
2. R1-9: 42 sc. (42)
3. Separate the stitches for the pant legs:
4. Work 21 sc around and join, leaving the other 21 stitches for the second leg.
5. Continue working in a round for 2 more rows (21 sc).
6. Repeat this process for the second leg.
7. R10-16: 15 sc. (15)
8. R17: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 3. (12)
9. R18: 12 sc. (12)
10. R19: 6 dec. (6)

Fasten off and sew the overall pants onto the body.

Assembly Notes

1. Eyes: Sew the eyes between rows 17 and 18 on the head, spaced 12-13 stitches apart.
2. Nose: Attach the nose between rows 16 and 17 of the head.
3. Arms and Legs: Attach the arms on either side of the body and the legs to the lower portion.
4. Ears: Sew the ears to the top of the head between rows 4 and 5.

Tail (Main Color)

1. R1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. R2: 6 inc. (12)
3. R3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (18)
4. R4: 18 sc. (18)
5. R5: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (12)
6. R6: 6 dec. (6)

Stuff the tail lightly and sew it to the back of the body.

This completes the Pumpkin Bunny!

Clovis Duck Free Pattern

 

Clovis Duck Crochet Pattern

Materials and Size Recommendations:

• 3mm crochet hook
• 6mm safety eyes
• Example used: Mallard Duck

Stitches Key:

• Ch: Chain
• Sl: Slip stitch
• X: Single crochet
• V: Increase (2 sc in 1 stitch)
• A: Decrease (invisible decrease)
• Blo: Back loop only
• Flo: Front loop only
• T: Half double crochet
• F: Double crochet
• K: Empty stitch
• [..]: Crochet in the same stitch

Head (Green Yarn)

1. R1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. R2: 6 inc. (12)
3. R3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (18)
4. R4: 18 sc. (18)
5. R5: (1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc) x 6. (24)
6. R6: 24 sc. (24)
7. R7: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (30)
8. R8: (2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc) x 6. (36)
9. R9: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (42)
10. R10-13: 42 sc. (42)

Mark the 17th and 25th stitches of R11, and insert the safety eyes in these positions.

14. R14: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (36)
15. R15: (2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc) x 6. (30)
16. R16: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (24)
17. R17: (1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc) x 6. (18)
18. R18: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (12)

Stuff the head firmly with fiberfill.

Neck (White Yarn)

1. R19: Switch to white yarn. (4 sc, 1 dec) x 2. (10)
2. R20: 10 sc. (10)

Body (Brown Yarn)

1. R21: Switch to brown yarn. (2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc) x 2. (12)
2. R22: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 3. (15)
3. R23: (2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc) x 3. (18)
4. R24: (1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc) x 6. (24)
5. R25: Switch to light brown yarn. (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6. (30)
6. R26: (2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc) x 6. (36)
7. R27-30: 36 sc. (36)

Next, mark the position for the tail. Adjust the stitch count if necessary to ensure the tail is centered at the back of the body.

Tail Placement

1. R31: 3 sc, Flo (5 ch, 1 sc, 6 ch, 1 sc, 5 ch, 1 sc), switch to light brown yarn, 30 sc. (36)
2. R32: Using the back loops from the previous row: (2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc) x 6. (30)
3. R33: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (24)
4. R34: (1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc) x 6. (18)
5. R35: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6. (12)
6. R36: 6 dec. (6)

Close off and cut the yarn.

Wings (Make 2 - Brown Yarn)

1. R1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. R2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 3. (9)
3. R3: Switch to light brown yarn. 9 sc. (9)
4. R4: 3 sc, 4 sc (blue yarn), 2 sc (light brown yarn). (9)
5. R5: 9 sc. (9)
6. R6: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 3. (6)
7. R7: 6 sc. (6)

Close off and cut the yarn.

Legs (Make 2 - Orange Yarn)

1. R1: Leave a long tail, 5 sc in a magic ring. (5)
2. R2-3: 5 sc. (5)

Leave a long tail and cut the yarn.

Beak (Yellow Yarn)

1. R1: 6 ch, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook, 2 sc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc. (12)
2. R2: 12 sc. (12)
3. R3: 2 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc. (14)

Leave a long tail and cut the yarn.

Feet (Make 2 - Orange Yarn)

1. R1: 4 sc in a magic ring. (4)
2. R2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2. (6)
3. R3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 3. (9)
4. R4-5: 9 sc. (9)
5. Flatten and crochet 2 layers together: R6: (1 sc, 2 ch, 1 sc) x 3, sl st to finish.

Assembly and Sewing

1. Attach the beak at the upper part of the head, between the eyes.
2. Sew the legs and feet together, then attach the legs to the bottom of the body.
3. You can also attach the feet directly to the body if preferred, without attaching legs.
4. Sew the wings to each side of the body, making sure they are symmetrical.

This completes the assembly of the Clovis Duck!

EXCAVATOR Free Crochet Pattern

 

EXCAVATOR (BULLDOZER) PATTERN

TERMS

• Sh = Magic ring
• Zn = Chain
• X = Single crochet
• V = Increase
• A = Decrease
• W = Work three stitches into one stitch
• Blo = Back loop only
• (...)*... = Repeat what’s in parentheses
• Cc = Slip stitch

WHEEL

1. Sh 6x
2. 6V = 12X
3. (1X, V) * 6 = 18X
4. (2X, V) * 6 = 24X
5. (3X, V) * 6 = 30X
6. (4X, V) * 6 = 36X
7. Work in Blo (back loop only)
8. Rows 8-10: Work straight in rounds
9. Row 11: In Blo, (4X, A) * 6 = 30X

Note: Insert the cap reinforced with wire into the crochet piece. Continue stuffing with fiberfill and closing.

12. (3X, A) * 6 = 24X
13. (2X, A) * 6 = 18X
14. (X, A) * 6 = 12X
15. 6A (Close with a needle)

Note 1: For the second wheel, after completing the decrease round, insert a straw into the wire section of the first wheel. Secure the second wheel with wire, stuff with fiberfill, and decrease as before.

Note 2: You can adjust the number of increases based on the size of the cap used, and pay attention to symmetry during the decrease section.

BASE (CHASSIS)

1. Chain 17, starting from the 2nd chain from hook: 1V, 14X, 3W in the last stitch, 15X, close with slip stitch = 34X
2. Rows 2-50: Work straight = 34X

Note: After completing 50 rows, cut a rectangular piece from a cheese container (use the hard kind) and place it inside.

51. Join both ends with single crochet.

BODY

1. Sh 6x
2. 6V = 12X
3. (1X, V) * 6 = 18X
4. (2X, V) * 6 = 24X
5. (3X, V) * 6 = 30X
6. (4X, V) * 6 = 36X
7. (5X, V) * 6 = 42X
8. (6X, V) * 6 = 48X
9. (7X, V) * 6 = 54X
10. (8X, V) * 6 = 60X
11. (9X, A) * 6 = 54X
12. (8X, A) * 6 = 48X
13. (7X, A) * 6 = 42X
14. (6X, A) * 6 = 36X
15. (5X, A) * 6 = 30X
16. (4X, A) * 6 = 24X
17. (3X, A) * 6 = 18X
18. (2X, A) * 6 = 12X
19. (1X, A) * 6 = 6X (Finish).

HEAD

1. Sh 6x
2. 6V = 12X
3. (1X, V) * 6 = 18X
4. (2X, V) * 6 = 24X
5. (3X, V) * 6 = 30X
6. (4X, V) * 6 = 36X
7. (5X, V) * 6 = 42X
8. (6X, V) * 6 = 48X
9. (7X, V) * 6 = 54X
10. (8X, A) = 9X
11. 9X
12. (7X, A) = 8X
13. 8X (Finish, gather and close with a needle).

EARS (two gray, two pink)

1. Sh 6x
2. 6V = 12X
3. (1X, V) * 6 = 18X
4. (2X, V) * 6 = 24X

ARMS (two pieces)

Start with pink yarn:

1. Sh 6x
2. V-5X = 7X
3. V-6X = 8X
4. Switch to gray yarn
5. V-7X = 9X
6. V-8X = 10X
7. Rows 6-13: 10X
8. (3X, V) * 6 = 30X
9. (4X, V) * 6 = 36X

Stack gray and pink colors on top of each other, join with a needle. Leave a long tail for sewing.

NOSE

Start with pink yarn:

1. Sh 6x
2. 6V = 12X
3. Rows 3-5: 12X
4. 6A (stuff with fiberfill): 6X
5. Gather with a needle and finish.

DETAILS

For the shoes, dress, and other details, follow your creative ideas!

Baby Garfield Free Pattern

 

Abbreviations

• R - Round
• MR - Magic Ring
• sc - Single Crochet
• st - Stitch
• bo - Bobble Stitch
• inc - Increase
• dec - Decrease
• sist - Slip Stitch
• FO - Fasten Off

Materials

• Yarn - Yellow, Brown, and White (I use 2mm chenille yarn)
• Crochet Hook (I use 1.8mm crochet hook)
• Amigurumi Eyes (I use 5mm black half round bead)
• Pink Bead (I use 4mm half round bead)
• Stuffing

Head (In Yellow)

1. R1: 6sc in MR
2. R2: 6inc
3. R3: (sc, inc) × 6
4. R4: (2sc, inc) x 6
5. R5: (2sc, inc) x 8
6. R6: (3sc, inc) x 8
7. R7-14: sc around (8 rounds)

Start stuffing.

15. R15: (sc, dec) x 13, sc
16. R16: (sc, dec) x 9
17. R17: 9dec
18. R18: 4dec, sc

FO and sew the hole closed.

Body (In Yellow)

1. R1: 6sc in MR
2. R2: 6inc
3. R3: (sc, inc) x 6
4. R4: (sc, inc) x 9
5. R5-7: sc around (3 rounds)

Start stuffing.

8. R8: (3sc, dec) x 5, 2sc
9. R9: (3sc, dec) x 4, 2sc
10. R10: (3sc, dec) x 3, 3sc

FO and leave a long tail to sew. Sew the body onto the head.

Legs (Make 2, In Yellow)

1. R1: 6sc in MR
2. R2: 6inc
3. R3: (3sc, inc) x 3
4. R4: BLO sc around
5. R5: sc around

Start stuffing.

6. R6: 4sc, 4dec, 3sc
7. R7: 2sc, 4dec, sc
8. R8-9: sc around (2 rounds)

FO and leave a long tail to sew both legs to the body between R5-7, about 7 visible stitches apart.

Hands (Make 2, In Yellow)

1. R1: 6sc in MR
2. R2-4: sc around (3 rounds)

Finish stuffing and do 3sc across to close the hole, FO and leave a long tail to sew. Sew both hands to the body between R8-10, right above the legs.

Ears (Make 2, In Yellow)

1. R1: 5sc in MR
2. R2: sc, inc, 2sc, inc
3. R3: 3sc, inc, 3sc

Do not stuff, do 4sc across the ears to close the hole, FO and leave a long tail to sew both ears on top of the head.

Embroider 3 vertical lines and 1 horizontal line on both ears.

Tail (In Brown)

1. R1: 6sc in MR
2. R2: (sc, inc) x 3
3. R3: sc around

In Yellow:

4. R4-5: sc around (2 rounds)
5. Start stuffing lightly.

In Brown:

6. R6: (2sc, dec) x 2, sc

In Yellow:

7. R7-8: sc around (2 rounds)

In Brown:

9. sc around

In Yellow:

10. R10-11: sc around

FO and leave a long tail to sew the tail on the back of the body between R5-7.

White of the Eye (Make 2, In White)

1. R1: 6sc in MR
2. R2: (sc, inc) x 3

FO and leave a long tail to sew.

Snout (Make 2)

Do 1bo (3 unfinished dec) and sl st in MR, FO and leave a long tail to sew.

Sew white of the eyes between R6-10 of the head BLO. Add amigurumi eyes on white of eyes. Sew two snouts under the eyes. Add a pink bead on top of the snout. Embroider 3 horizontal lines on both sides of the head.

Congratulations!

You've successfully completed your own baby Garfield!

Coco The Sitting Cow Free Pattern

Materials

• Yarn (I used Himalaya Dolphin Baby)
• Crochet Hook (I used 4.5 mm)
• Safety Eyes (I used 15 mm)
• Polyfill
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle
• Stitch Marker

Abbreviations

• MR - Magic Ring
• SC - Single Crochet
• inc - Increase
• dec - Decrease
• F.O. - Fasten Off
• sl st - Slip Stitch

Head (In Body Color)

1. R1: 6 SC in a MR
2. R2: inc (12)
3. R3: (SC, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 SC, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5: (3 SC, inc) x6 (30)
6. R6: (4 SC, inc) x6 (36)
7. R7: (5 SC, inc) x6 (42)
8. R8-14: 42 SC (7 rounds)
9. R15: (5 SC, dec) x6 (36)
10. R16: (4 SC, dec) x6 (30)
11. R17: (3 SC, dec) x6 (24)

SI st and F.O., stuff. Place safety eyes between R11 and R12 about 7 visible stitches apart.

Body (In Body Color)

1. R1: SC in a MR
2. R2: 6 inc (12)
3. R3: (SC, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4: (2 SC, inc) x6 (24)
5. R5: (3 SC, inc) x6 (30)
6. R6: (4 SC, inc) x6 (36)
7. R7-12: 36 SC (6 rounds)
8. R13: (4 SC, dec) x6 (30)
9. R14-15: 30 SC (2 rounds)
10. R16: (3 SC, dec) x6 (24)
11. R17: 24 SC

Sl st and F.O., stuff. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Arm (x2, In Body Color)

1. R1: SC in a MR
2. R2: 5 inc (10)
3. R3-6: 10 SC (4 rounds)

SI st and F.O., stuff. Leave a long tail for sewing.

If you want the arms to match the legs, crochet R1-2 in a second color and R3-6 in body color.

Leg (x2, Start with Second Color)

1. R1: SC in a MR
2. R2: 6 inc (12)
3. R3: (SC, inc) x6 (18)
4. R4-5: 18 SC (2 rounds)
5. Change to body color
6. R6: 18 SC
7. R7: (4 SC, dec) x3 (15)

SI st and F.O., stuff. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Ear (x2, In Second Color)

1. R1: 6 SC in a MR
2. R2: (SC, inc) x3 (9)
3. R3: (2 SC, inc) x3 (12)
4. R4: (3 SC, inc) x3 (15)
5. R5-7: 15 SC (3 rounds)

Don't stuff. Fold the top of the ear flat and SC through both sides. Connect the first and last stitch to form an ear shape. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Muzzle (In Pink)

1. Make a slip knot and ch 7.
2. R1: Starting on the 2nd ch from the hook, 5 SC. Make an inc in the 6th stitch. Make an inc into the next stitch on the other side. 4 SC, inc (15).
3. R2: inc, 4 SC, inc, SC, inc, 5 SC, inc, SC (19).
4. R3-4: 19 SC (2 rounds).

Sl st and F.O., stuff. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Horn (x2, In Brown)

1. R1: SC in a MR
2. R2-4: 6 SC (3 rounds)

SI st and F.O., stuff. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Assembly

1. First, sew the head to the body stitch by stitch. Add a little more polyfill at the end for better support.
2. Arms: sew them right under the head, R14-17, 6 visible stitches apart.
3. Legs: sew them between R6-9, 7 visible stitches apart.
4. Muzzle: sew it in two ways:
   • a) between R11-14
   • b) between R12-15
   It depends on how I like it :P
5. Ears: sew them between R9-10, I like sewing them 3 stitches behind the eyes.
6. Sew horns between R6-7 just above the ears.

And you are all done!

Hope you enjoyed using my "Coco the Sitting Cow" pattern!

Snow white dolly Free Crochet Pattern

 

Dress

With blue:

• Chain 24.
• Turn, starting from the 3rd chain, work 22 hdc.
• Ch 2, turn, 3 hdc, 5 hdc increase, 6 hdc, 5 hdc increase, 3 hdc (32 hdc).
• Ch 2, turn, (3 hdc, 1 hdc increase) *8 (40 hdc).
• Ch 2, turn, 7 hdc, chain 6, skip 8 stitches, sc in the 9th st, 10 hdc, chain 6, skip 8 stitches, sc in the 9th st, 5 hdc, chain 9 (adjust this chain size according to the button size).
• Turn, sl st into the first stitch, chain 2, work 30 hdc from the first stitch.
• Rows 6-8: 30 hdc.

Dress Skirt

With yellow yarn, join the bottom edges of the dress using slip stitch.

• Row 9: 30 sc (sl st into the last stitch, ch 2).
• Row 10: 30 hdc increase (60 hdc).
• Rows 11-14: 60 hdc.
• Row 15: Finish the skirt with reverse single crochet (crab stitch).

Shoes

• Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 8 sc.
• Round 2: 8 increases (16 sc).
• Rounds 3-7: 16 sc.
• Round 8: Finish with reverse single crochet.

Hair Bow

With pink yarn:

• Chain 20.
• Skip 2 chains, starting from the 3rd chain, work 18 hdc.
• Rows 2-5: 18 hdc.
• Work around the bow with single crochet or reverse single crochet.
• Gather the middle of the bow with a thread and leave a long tail for sewing.

Apple

With red yarn:

• Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc.
• Round 2: 6 increases (12 sc).
• Rounds 3-5: 12 sc.
• Round 6: 6 decreases, stuff with fiberfill (6 sc).
• Finish off by gathering the stitches with a needle.

Leaf (With green yarn):

Leave a long tail, chain 4. Work slip stitch, sc, hdc into the chain. Leave a tail and cut the yarn. Tie the two tails together and sew to the apple.

Stem (With brown yarn):

Tie about 12 knots to form a thin stem, then attach the remaining yarn to the apple by sewing or tying a knot.

You can either attach the apple to both hands of Snow White or place it in a basket.

Basket (Optional)

• Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc.
• Round 2: 6 increases (12 sc).
• Round 3: (1 sc, 1 increase) *6 (18 sc).
• Round 4: (2 sc, 1 increase) *6 (24 sc).
• Round 5: (3 sc, 1 increase) *6 (30 sc).
• Round 6: Work in back loops only, 30 sc.
• Rounds 7-11: 30 sc.
• Round 12: Work reverse single crochet around the basket edge.
• Handle: Chain 32, turn, skip 2 chains, and work 30 hdc back. Attach the handle to the basket with stitches.

Bag (Optional)

• Round 1: Make a magic ring, work 6 sc.
• Round 2: 6 increases (12 sc).
• Round 3: (1 sc, 1 increase) *6 (18 sc).
• Round 4: (2 sc, 1 increase) *6 (24 sc).
• Round 5: (3 sc, 1 increase) *6 (30 sc).
• Round 6: Work in back loops only, 30 sc.
• Rounds 7-11: 30 sc.
• Round 12: Finish with reverse single crochet along the edge.
• For the handle: Chain 32, turn, skip 2 chains, and work 30 hdc across. Attach the handle to the bag with stitches.

Hair Tie

• Chain 20.
• Skip 2 chains, starting from the 3rd chain, work 18 hdc.
• Rows 2-5: 18 hdc.
• Work around the hair tie with single crochet or reverse single crochet.
• Gather the middle section with yarn and leave a long tail to sew onto the doll.

Shoe Sole

• Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 8 sc.
• Round 2: 8 increases (16 sc).
• Rounds 3-7: 16 sc.
• Round 8: Finish with reverse single crochet.

Additional Decorations

You can personalize your doll's clothing with your choice of colors, buttons, or other accessories. If you want to create a basket, place it in the doll's hands or sew it onto the side. Feel free to get creative with any additional embellishments!

Venus Fly Trap Free Pattern

 

Supplies:

• Yarn 4/Medium Weight Yarn in...
• Green, dark green, red, pink, light brown, and dark brown
• 4mm Crochet Hook
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• Hot glue gun (optional)
• 12mm safety eyes

Additional Information:

• Difficulty: Easy
• Size: 7" tall

This Venus fly trap makes a unique plant look oh-so-cute! His big smile will bring a smile to your face!

This is a simple project with a few unique techniques with an adorable end result. If you're a fan of the Mario video games or movies, you could even alter the colors of this pattern to look like a Piranha Plant or even a Chain Chomp!

Mouth: (Make first in Red)

1. Round 1: 6 Sc into a Magic Ring (6)
2. Round 2: Inc all around (12)
3. Round 3: Inc, Sc in the next st all around (18)
4. Round 4: Inc, Sc in the next 2 st all around (24)
5. Round 5: Inc, Sc in the next 3 st all around (30)
6. Round 6: Inc, Sc in the next 4 st all around (36)
7. Round 7: Inc, Sc in the next 5 st all around (42)

Finish off now and weave in ends.

Head: (In Green)

1. Round 1: 6 Sc into a Magic Ring (6)
2. Round 2: Inc all around (12)
3. Round 3: Inc, Sc in the next st all around (18)
4. Round 4: Inc, Sc in the next 2 st all around (24)
5. Round 5: Inc, Sc in the next 3 st all around (30)
6. Round 6: Inc, Sc in the next 4 st all around (36)
7. Round 7: Inc, Sc in the next 5 st all around (42)
8. Round 8: Inc, Sc in the next 6 st all around (48)
9. Round 9-12: Sc all around (48)

Now we will mark where to place the safety eyes.

Add a different colored stitch marker into the 22nd and 29th stitch in Round 12. Later we will replace these markers with safety eyes.

1. Round 13: Sc in the next 14 st. Align the mouth piece to the head stitches, making sure the right side of the mouth is facing out. Inserting your hook through BOTH stitches, Sc in the next 21 st. Working back on the head piece only, Sc in the next 13 st (48 stitches made).
2. Round 14: Sc in the next 14 st. Working on the mouth stitches only, Sc in the next 21 st. Working back on the head piece only, Sc in the next 13 st (48 stitches made).
3. Round 15: Sc in the next 14 st. Working in the BLO, Sc in the next 21 st. Now continue working in BOTH loops, Sc in the next 13 st (48).

Add the safety eyes in the marked areas now.

1. Round 16-18: Sc all around (48)
2. Round 19: Dec, Sc in the next 6 st all around (42)
3. Round 20: Dec, Sc in the next 5 st all around (36)
4. Round 21: Dec, Sc in the next 4 st all around (30)
5. Round 22: Dec, Sc in the next 3 st all around (24)

Stuff the head now and continue stuffing after each round.

1. Round 23: Dec, Sc in the next 2 st all around (18)
2. Round 24: Dec, Sc in the next st all around (12)
3. Round 25: Dec all around (6)

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the remaining stitches closed. Weave in ends and cut any excess yarn.

Top Teeth: (In Green)

Attach your hook onto the mouth's stitches as shown and yarn over with green yarn. Repeat:

*SISt in the next 2 st. Ch 4, Sc in the 2nd Ch from the hook, Hdc in the next Ch, Dc in the last Ch. Skip the next 2 st* 5 times. SiSt in the next st and finish off, weaving in any ends and cutting any excess yarn.

Bottom Teeth:

Attach your hook onto the front loops we left in Round 15 and yarn over with green yarn. SISt in the next 2 st. Repeat:

*Ch 4, Sc in the 2nd Ch from the hook, Hdc in the next Ch, Dc in the last Ch. Skip the next st, SISt in the next 2 st* 2 times.

SiSt in the next st 4 st. Repeat Ch 4, Sc in the 2nd Ch from the hook, Hdc in the next Ch, Dc in the last Ch. Skip the next st, SISt in the next 2 st 2 times.

Sist in the last st and finish off, weaving in any ends and cutting any excess yarn.

Tongue: (In Pink)

1. Round 1: 6 Sc into a Magic Ring (6)
2. Round 2-9: Sc all around (6)

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin the tongue on as shown and sew on. Once on, weave in ends and cut any excess yarn.

Soil: (In Dark Brown)

1. Round 1: 6 Sc into a Magic Ring (6)
2. Round 2: Inc all around (12)
3. Round 3: Inc, Sc in the next st all around (18)
4. Round 4: Inc, Sc in the next 2 st all around (24)
5. Round 5: Inc, Sc in the next 3 st all around (30)
6. Round 6: Inc, Sc in the next 4 st all around (36)
7. Round 7: Inc, Sc in the next 5 st all around (42)
8. Round 8: Inc, Sc in the next 6 st all around (48)

Finish off and weave in ends. Cut any excess yarn.

Flower Pot: (In Brown)

1. Round 1: 6 Sc into a Magic Ring (6)
2. Round 2: Inc all around (12)
3. Round 3: Inc, Sc in the next st all around (18)
4. Round 4: Inc, Sc in the next 2 st all around (24)
5. Round 5: Inc, Sc in the next 3 st all around (30)
6. Round 6: Inc, Sc in the next 4 st all around (36)
7. Round 7: Inc, Sc in the next 5 st all around (42)
8. Place this piece onto a piece of cardboard. Trace around the cardboard and cut out the circle.
9. We will later put this piece inside the pot so the bottom sits flat.
10. Round 8: Working in the Back Loop Only (BLO), Sc all around (42)
11. Round 9-12: Sc all around (42)
12. Round 13: Inc, Sc in the next 6 st all around (48)
13. Round 14-16: Sc all around (48)
14. Round 17: Align the soil to the pot's stitches. Going through BOTH the pot and soil's stitches, Sc all around, make sure to add in the cardboard and stuff the piece firmly before fully crocheting closed (48).
15. Round 18: Working in the BLO, Dc all around (48)

Finish off. Weave in the ends and cut any excess yarn.

Leaves: (Make 2, In Green)

1. Round 1: 6 Sc into a Magic Ring (6)
2. Round 2: Sc all around (6)
3. Round 3: Inc all around (12)
4. Round 4: Sc all around (12)
5. Round 5: Inc, Sc in the next st all around (18)
6. Round 6: Sc all around (18)
7. Round 7: Inc, Sc in the next 2 st all around (24)
8. Round 8-14: Sc all around (24)
9. Round 15: Dec, Sc in the next 2 st all around (18)
10. Round 16: Dec, Sc in the next st all around (12)

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin the leaves on as shown and sew on. Once on, weave in ends and cut any excess yarn.

Place the head onto the pot and sew or hot glue on. Once done, weave in ends.

Done!

If you made this amigurumi,

Paw Patrol Free Pattern

 

ABBREVIATIONS

• MR: Magic Ring
• sc: Single Crochet
• inc: Increase (2 single crochets in 1 stitch)
• dec: Decrease (invisible decrease)
• FLO: Front Loop Only
• hdc: Half Double Crochet
• dc: Double Crochet

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Choose appropriate colors
• Crochet hook: Size as needed (typically 2.5mm - 4mm)
• Safety eyes: As required
• Embroidery thread: For details
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needles

BODY

1. Rnd 1: 6 single crochets (sc) in a magic ring. (6)
2. Rnd 2: 6 increases (inc) (12)
3. Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)
8. Rnd 8-9: 42 sc
9. Change color
10. Rnd 10-14: 42 sc
11. Rnd 15: (19 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (40)
12. Rnd 16: 40 sc
13. Rnd 17: (18 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (38)
14. Rnd 18: 38 sc
15. Rnd 19: (17 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (36)
16. Rnd 20: 36 sc
17. Rnd 21: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)
18. Rnd 22: 30 sc
19. Rnd 23: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)
20. Rnd 24: 24 sc

Cut the yarn.

CAP BRIM

1. Skip 15 sc, make 1 decrease (dec), 14 sc, 1 dec in FLO (16).
2. Turn and repeat the following for 3 rows:
   • Rows 1-3: 16 sc
3. Row 4: 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec (14)

TAIL

1. Rnd 1: 4 sc in a magic ring. (4)
2. Rnd 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (6)
3. Rnd 3: 6 sc (6)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (8)
5. Rnd 5-7: 8 sc

Cut the yarn.

HAIR

Start at the front of the head, skip 2 stitches:

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring.
2. Rnd 2: 6 increases (12)
3. Rnd 3: 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec (4)
4. Rnd 4: 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (3)

Make 3 rows of 3 sc or until it reaches the snout area.

CAP

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. Rnd 2: 6 increases (12)
3. Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)
9. Rnd 9: 48 sc in BLO (back loop only)
10. Rnd 10: 15 sc, 4 half double crochet (hdc), 10 double crochet (dc), 4 hdc, 15 sc (48)
11. Rounds 11-12: Repeat round 10.
12. Rnd 13: 15 sc, 18 hdc, 15 sc (48)

Cut the yarn.

HEAD

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
2. Rnd 2: 6 increases (12)
3. Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)
9. Rnd 9-21: 48 sc (13 rounds)
10. Rnd 22: (6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)
11. Rnd 23: (5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)
12. Rnd 24: (4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)
13. Rnd 25: (3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)
14. Rnd 26: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)
15. Rnd 27: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
16. Rnd 28: 6 decreases (6)

Fasten off and close.

EARS

1. Rnd 1: 4 sc in a magic ring. (4)
2. Rnd 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2 (6)
3. Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (9)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (12)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 3 (15)
6. Rnd 6-11: 15 sc (6 rounds)
7. Fold in half and sc 7 stitches across to close the ear.

Cut the yarn.

ASSEMBLY

1. Sew the head and body together. Make sure the head is centered on the body.
2. Attach the snout to the lower part of the head, positioning it so that it overlaps slightly with the neck.
3. Sew the ears on each side of the head, starting a few rows below the top and ensuring they are evenly spaced.
4. Attach the eyes between the 14th and 15th rounds of the head, leaving 10 stitches apart.
5. Sew the back legs on either side of the lower part of the body.
6. Attach the front legs to the sides of the body, ensuring they are symmetrical.
7. Sew the tail at the back of the body, just above the bottom.
8. Add the cap brim by sewing it at the front part of the cap, leaving a slight overlap with the head.
9. Attach the hair at the top of the head in the center, between the ears.

FINISHING DETAILS

1. Embroider the nose at the end of the snout using black yarn. Create a small, triangular shape.
2. Stitch the mouth using a thin piece of black yarn or embroidery thread, shaping it into a small smile just below the snout.
3. Create eyebrows by sewing small stitches above the eyes using dark yarn.
4. Add any additional markings or details as needed, like patches on the body or cap.

Ratatouille Free Crochet Pattern

 

Feet (two pieces)

In pink color:

1. sh 6x @neslusun
2. (V-x)*3 = 9x
3. v - 8x = 10x
4. v - 9x = 11x

Switch to gray color:

5. v - 11x = 12x
6. v - 12x = 13x
7. (7x - V)*6 = 54x
8. 5 - 9 = 54x
9. (7x - a)*6 = 48x
10. 48x
11. 3x - a, (6x - a)*5, 3x = 42x
12. 42x
13. (5x - a)*6 = 36x
14. 36x
15. 5x - a, (10x - a)*2, 5x = 33x
16. 33x
17. v - 12x = 14x
18. v - 13x = 15x
19. 15x

Create one more of the same and join 3 Zn.

Start the Body:

1. 15x from one leg, 3x, 15 from the other leg, 3x = 36x
2. (5x - V)*6 = 42x
3. 3x - v, (6x - v)*5, 3x = 48x
4. (9x - a)*3 = 30x
5. 30x
6. 4x - a, (8x - a)*2, 4x = 27x
7. 27x
8. (7x - a)*3 = 24x
9. 24x finished, leave a long thread for sewing.
10. (8x - v)*6 = 60x
11. 11 - 20 = 60x
12. (8x - a)*6 = 54x
13. (7x - a)*6 = 48x
14. (6x - a)*6 = 42x
15. (5x - a)*6 = 36x
16. (4x - a)*6 = 24x
17. (3x - a)*6 = 18x
18. (2x - a)*6 = 12x
19. (1x - a)*6 = 6x finished.

Head

1. sh 6x
2. 6V = 12x
3. (1x - v)*6 = 18x
4. (2x - v)*6 = 24x
5. (3x - v)*6 = 30x
6. (4x - v)*6 = 36x
7. (5x - v)*6 = 42x
8. (6x - V)*6 = 48x
9. (7x - V)*6 = 54x
10. a - 8x = 9x
11. 9x
12. a - 7x = 8x
13. 8x finished, combine with the needle.

Ears (two gray - two pink)

1. sh 6x
2. 6v = 12x
3. (1x - v)*6 = 18x
4. (2x - v)*6 = 24x

Arms (two pieces)

Start with pink color:

1. sh 6x
2. v - 5x = 7x
3. v - 6x = 8x

Switch to gray color:

1. v - 7x = 9x
2. v - 8x = 10x
3. 10x for 6 - 13.
4. (3x - v)*6 = 30x
5. (4x - v)*6 = 36x

Place gray and pink colors on top of each other. Combine with the needle. Leave a long thread for sewing.

Nose

Start with pink color:

1. sh 6x

6V = 12x

(1x - v)*6 = 18x

(2x - v)*6 = 24x

(3x - v)*6 = 30x

(4x - v)*6 = 36x

(5x - v)*6 = 42x

(6x - v)*6 = 48x

(7x - v)*6 = 54x

(8x - v)*6 = 60x

(9x - v)*6 = 66x

(10x - v)*6 = 72x

(11x - v)*6 = 78x

(12x - v)*6 = 84x

(13x - v)*6 = 90x

(14x - v)*6 = 96x

(15x - v)*6 = 102x

Finish by gathering the remaining stitches.

Cute Bee Free Pattern

 

ABBREVIATIONS

• MR: Magic Ring
• sc: Single Crochet
• hdc: Half Double Crochet
• dc: Double Crochet
• inc: Increase (2 single crochets in 1 stitch)
• dec: Decrease (invisible decrease)
• FLO: Front Loop Only
• slst: Slip Stitch

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Sport or DK light-weight yarn (e.g., HELLO Cotton)
• Crochet hook: 2mm - 2.5mm
• Safety eyes: 8mm size
• Black embroidery thread
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needles

BODY

Start with yellow yarn.

1. Rnd 1: 7 sc in MR (7)
2. Rnd 2: 7 inc (14)
3. Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 7 (21)
4. Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] x 7 (28)
5. Rnd 5: sc, inc, [3 sc, inc] x 6, 2 sc (35)
6. Rnd 6: 35 sc (35)
7. Rnd 7: [4 sc, inc] x 7 (42)
8. Rnd 8 - 15: 42 sc (42)
9. Rnd 16: [6 sc, inc] x 6 (48)
10. Rnd 17 - 20: 48 sc (48)

Switch to black yarn.

1. Rnd 21: 21 sc, BLO, [12 sc], 15 sc (48)
2. Rnd 22: 48 sc (48)

Switch to grey yarn.

1. Rnd 23 - 24: 48 sc (48)

Switch back to black yarn.

1. Rnd 25: 48 sc (48)
2. Rnd 26: [4 sc, dec] x 8 (40)
3. Rnd 27: [3 sc, dec] x 8 (32)
4. Rnd 28: [2 sc, dec] x 8 (24)
5. Rnd 29: [sc, dec] x 8 (16)
6. Rnd 30: 8 dec, 1 sc (8)

Note: Insert your hook into the FLO stitches from Rnd 21 on the body.

1. Rnd 1 - 2: With grey yarn, crochet 12 sc (12)
2. Rnd 3 - 4: With black yarn, crochet 12 sc (12)

Fasten off and hide yarn tails.

MONOCLE

Start with white yarn.

1. Rnd 1: 7 sc in MR (7)
2. Rnd 2: 7 inc (14)
3. Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 7 (21)

Switch to grey yarn.

1. Rnd 4: FLO 21 sc (21)

Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing. Place a plastic eye on the monocle and position it between Rnd 9 and Rnd 10 of the body.

STRAP

With black yarn.

1. Rnd 1: ch 36, 35 hdc on chains (35)
2. Rnd 2: 35 slst on the other side of chains (35)

Fasten off and sew to the body as needed.

ARMS (Make 2)

Start with black yarn.

1. Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR (5)
2. Rnd 2: 4 inc, 1 sc (9)
3. Rnd 3: 9 sc (9)
4. Rnd 4: [sc, dec] x 3 (6)

Switch to yellow yarn.

1. Rnd 5 - 10: 6 sc (6)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing to the body at Rnd 14.

LEGS (Make 2)

Start with black yarn.

1. Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR (5)
2. Rnd 2: 5 inc (10)
3. Rnd 3: 10 sc (10)

Switch to grey yarn.

1. Rnd 4: 3 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc (8)
2. Rnd 5: 8 sc (8)

Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing to the bottom of the body.

STRAP

Start with black yarn.

1. Rnd 1: ch 31 (31)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing to the body.

EARS (Make 2)

Start with yellow yarn.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: [sc, inc] x 3 (9)
3. Rnd 3: [sc, inc, sc] x 3 (12)
4. Rnd 4: 12 sc (12)

Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing to the sides of the head.

HAT

Start with red yarn.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
3. Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)
4. Rnd 4: [2 sc, inc] x 6 (24)
5. Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
6. Rnd 6: [4 sc, inc] x 6 (36)
7. Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
8. Rnd 8: [6 sc, inc] x 6 (48)
9. Rnd 9: [7 sc, inc] x 6 (54)
10. Rnd 10 - 12: 54 sc (54)

Switch to yellow yarn.

1. Rnd 13: FLO 54 sc (54)
2. Rnd 14: 54 sc (54)

Switch back to red yarn.

1. Rnd 15: [4 sc, inc, 4 sc] x 6 (60)
2. Rnd 16: [9 sc, inc] x 6 (66)
3. Rnd 17: 66 sc (66)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Place the hat on top of the head, ensuring it is centered and evenly positioned. Sew securely.

TOP (SHIRT)

Start with red yarn.

1. Row 1: ch 27, sc in 2nd ch from the hook, and continue with 26 sc (26)
2. Row 2: sc 3, ch 5, skip 5 stitches, sc 10, ch 5, skip 5 stitches, sc 3 (26)
3. Row 3: 26 sc (26)
4. Row 4: sc 3, inc, 18 sc, inc, 3 sc (28)
5. Row 5: 28 sc (28)
6. Row 6: sc around the edge of the shirt (short stitches) to create a clean border.

Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

HAIR (BLACK YARN)

Start with black yarn.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: 6 inc (12)
3. Rnd 3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)
4. Rnd 4: [sc, inc, sc] x 6 (24)
5. Rnd 5: [3 sc, inc] x 6 (30)
6. Rnd 6: [2 sc, inc, 2 sc] x 6 (36)
7. Rnd 7: [5 sc, inc] x 6 (42)
8. Rnd 8 - 12: 42 sc (42)
9. Rnd 13: 14 sc, start creating bangs: ch 6, turn, slst in 2nd ch, sc, 3 hdc, slst into the next stitch on the head; repeat for each bang as desired.

Continue with 15 sc around to complete the head.

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

ASSEMBLY

1. Arms: Attach the two arms to the body at Rnd 14.
2. Legs: Attach the two legs at the base of the body.
3. Monocle: Sew the monocle onto the body, placing it between Rnd 9 and Rnd 10.
4. Strap: Attach the strap from the monocle to the side of the head.
5. Hat: Position the hat on top of the head and sew it securely.
6. Ears: Sew the ears on either side of the head, ensuring they are symmetrical.
7. Hair: Attach the hair to the top of the head, making sure the bangs fall as desired.

Once all the parts are assembled, make sure to weave in any remaining loose ends and trim the yarn.

Cute Minion Free Pattern

 

ABBREVIATIONS

• MR - magic ring
• sc - single crochet
• hdc - half double crochet
• dc - double crochet
• inc - increase (2 single crochet in 1 stitch)
• dec - decrease (invisible decrease)
• FLO - front loop only
• slst - slip stitch

MATERIALS

• Yarn: sport or DK lightweight yarn (I used HELLO cotton)
• Crochet hook: 2mm-2.5mm
• Safety eyes size 8mm
• Black embroidery thread
• Fiberfill
• Yarn needles

BODY

Start with yellow yarn.

1. Rnd 1. 7 sc in MR (7)
2. Rnd 2. 7 inc (14)
3. Rnd 3. [sc, inc] x 8 (21)
4. Rnd 4. [2 sc, inc] x 7 (28)
5. Rnd 5. sc, inc, [3 sc, inc] x 6, 2 sc (35)
6. Rnd 6. 35 sc (35)
7. Rnd 7. [4 sc, inc] x 7 (42)
8. Rnd 8-15. (8 rnds) 42 sc (42)
9. Rnd 16. [6 sc, inc] x 6 (48)
10. Rnd 17-20. (4 rnds) 48 sc (48)

Switch to black yarn.

1. Rnd 21. 21 sc, BLO, [12 sc], 15 sc (48)
2. Rnd 22. 48 sc (48)

Switch to grey yarn.

1. Rnd 23-24. (2 rnds) 48 sc (48)

Switch to black yarn.

1. Rnd 25. 48 sc (48)
2. Rnd 26. [4 sc, dec] x 8 (40)
3. Rnd 27. [3 sc, dec] x 8 (32)
4. Rnd 28. [2 sc, dec] x 8 (24)
5. Rnd 29. [sc, dec] x 8 (16)
6. Rnd 30. 8 dec, sc

Insert your hook to the FLO stitches (Rnd 21) on the body. Rnd 1-2 with grey yarn. Rnd 3-4 with black yarn.

1. Rnd 1-4. ch 1, 12 sc, slst (12)

Thread a needle with your yarn tail. Hide yarn tails.

MONOCLE

Start with white yarn.

1. Rnd 1. 7 sc in MR (7)
2. Rnd 2. 7 inc (14)
3. Rnd 3. [sc, inc] x 7 (21)

Switch to grey yarn.

1. Rnd 4. FLO 21 sc, slst (21)

Cut the yarn. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing. Place the plastic eye on the monocle, then place it on the front of the body with the plastic eye between Rnd 9 and Rnd 10.

STRAP

With black yarn.

1. Rnd 1. ch 36, 35 hdc on chains (35)
2. Rnd 2. 35 slst on the other side of chains (35)

ARMS (make two)

Start with black yarn.

1. Rnd 1. 5 sc in MR (5)
2. Rnd 2. 4 inc, sc (9)
3. Rnd 3. 9 sc (9)
4. Rnd 4. [sc, dec] x 3 (6)

Switch to yellow yarn.

1. Rnd 5-10. (6 rnds) 6 sc (6)

Cut the yarn. Leave a long tail. Thread a needle with your yarn tail and sew to the body at Rnd 14.

LEGS (make two)

Start with black yarn.

1. Rnd 1. 5 sc in MR (5)
2. Rnd 2. 5 inc (10)
3. Rnd 3. 10 sc (10)

Switch to grey yarn.

1. Rnd 4. 3 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc (8)
2. Rnd 5. 8 sc (8)

Cut the yarn. Leave a long yarn tail and sew to the bottom of the body.

STRAP

Start with black yarn.

1. Rnd 1. ch 31 (31)

Cut the yarn. Leave a long tail. Thread a needle with your yarn tail and sew to the body.

Elephant free crochet pattern 2

 

TERMS

• SH = Magic ring
• ZN = Chain
• V = Increase
• A = Decrease
• CC = Slip stitch
• X = Single crochet
• BLO = Working into the back loop
• FLO = Working into the front loop

BODY

ARMS

1. Sh 6x
2. 6V = 12X
3. (1x, V) * 6 = 18
4. BLO 18x
5. BLO 18x
6. Rows 6-8: 18x
7. (1x, A) * 6 = 12x
8. Rows 10-19: 12x
9. (2x, A) * 3 = 9x
10. Close the stitches in pairs, 4x.
11. Make a chain stitch between rows 5-7.

LEGS

1. Sh 6x
2. 6V = 12x
3. (1x, V) * 6 = 18x
4. (2x, V) * 6 = 24x
5. BLO 24x
6. BLO 24x
7. Rows 7-8: 24x
8. (2x, A) * 6 = 18x
9. Rows 10-14: 18x
10. (1x, A) * 6 = 12x
11. Rows 16-20: 12x
12. Close the stitches in pairs, 6x.
13. Make a chain stitch between rows 5-7.

BODY

1. 12 chains connected with slip stitch.
2. Rows 1-7: 12x
3. (2x, A) * 3 = 9x
4. Rows 9-11: 9x
5. A, 7x = 8x
6. A, 6x = 7x
7. 7x, close by gathering stitches.

HEAD AND BODY

1. Sh 6x
2. 6V = 12x
3. (1x, V) * 6 = 18x
4. (2x, V) * 6 = 24x
5. (3x, V) * 6 = 30x
6. (4x, V) * 6 = 36x
7. 36x
8. (5x, V) * 6 = 42x
9. (6x, V) * 6 = 48x
10. (7x, V) * 6 = 54x
11. 54x
12. (8x, V) * 6 = 60x
13. 12x, together with legs: 6x, 24x, legs: 6x, 12x = 60x
14. Rows 14-20: 60x
15. 18x, (6x, A) * 3 = 57x
16. 18x, (5x, A) * 3 = 54x
17. 54x
18. (7x, A) * 6 = 48x
19. 48x

HEAD AND BODY 2

1. (6x, A) * 6 = 42x
2. 42x
3. (5x, A) * 6 = 36x
4. (4x, A) * 6 = 30x
5. 30x
6. (3x, A) * 6 = 24x
7. 4x, with arms: 4x, 8x, with arms: 4x, 4x = 24x
8. 24x

Continue to HEAD

1. 24V = 48x
2. (7x, V) * 6 = 54x
3. 54x
4. (8x, V) * 6 = 60x
5. Rows 38-48: 60x
6. (8x, A) * 6 = 54x
7. 2x, A, (7x, A) * 5 = 48x
8. (6x, A) * 6 = 42x
9. 2x, A, (5x, A) * 5 = 36x
10. (4x, A) * 6 = 30x
11. (3x, A) * 6 = 24x
12. (2x, A) * 6 = 18x
13. (1x, A) * 6 = 12x
14. 6A = 6x, close by gathering stitches.

EARS

We will crochet a total of 4.

1. Sh 6x
2. 6V = 12x
3. (1x, V) * 6 = 18x
4. (2x, V) * 6 = 24x
5. (3x, V) * 6 = 30x
6. (4x, V) * 6 = 36x
7. (5x, V) * 6 = 42x
8. (6x, V) * 6 = 48x
9. (7x, V) * 6 = 54x

After crocheting the second piece, do not cut the yarn. Join the two pieces together to make 54x.

Make the other ear in the same way. Sew the ears to the sides, aligning with the row above the eyes.

CLOTHING PATTERN

No specific clothing pattern is available.

You can embellish it as you wish.

ASSEMBLY

• Attach the arms to the body at the desired position.
• Attach the legs at the bottom of the body.
• Sew the head securely onto the body.
• Attach the ears at the top sides of the head.

FINISHING TOUCHES

• Weave in any loose ends.
• Embellish the body and head as desired (e.g., safety eyes, nose).
• Ensure all parts are securely sewn on.

NOTES

Feel free to modify the pattern to create your unique designs! Experiment with different colors and embellishments to personalize your amigurumi.

HAPPY CROCHETING!

Enjoy creating your adorable amigurumi!

Stevie The Sloth Free Pattern

 

Materials:

• Yarn
  • C1 Medium Brown chenille (Main Body)
  • C2 Cream chenille (Face)
  • C3 Dark Brown DK (Eye Patches)
  • C4 Red chenille (Strawberry)
  • C5 Green chenille (Stem)
  • C6 Yellow chenille (Seeds)
  • C7 Black DK (Face details)
• 4mm Hook
• 3.5mm Hook
• 18mm Safety eyes
• Darning Needle
• Stitch marker, scissors + stuffing

Notes

Abbreviations:

• mr - magic ring
• sc - single crochet
• hdc - half double crochet
• dc - double crochet
• SS - same stitch
• slst - slip stitch
• ch - chain
• fo - fasten off
• inc - increase
• dec - decrease
• CC - colour change to yarn #

Additional Notes:

• This pattern is written in US terms.
• You will need approximately 50g of medium brown yarn, 20g of cream yarn, and less than 5g of dark brown yarn.
• This pattern is super quick and should take less than an hour.

Arms

Starting in Cream C2 [Make 2].

1. R1 - 6sc in mr (6sc)
2. R2 - 6sc (6sc)
3. R3 - R11 (9 rows) - CC1, sc around (65c)

Do not stuff, close the arm making 3 sc through both sides. Cut the yarn, only leave a small yarn tail.

Legs

Starting in Cream C2 [Make 2].

1. R1 - 8sc in mr (8sc)
2. R2 - 8sc (8sc)
3. R3 - R12 (10 rows) - CC1, sc around (8sc)

Stuff the first half of the leg, close the legs making 4 sc through both sides. Cut the yarn, only leave a small yarn tail.

Eye Patch

Starting in your eye patch colour C3, change to a smaller hook for the DK yarn [Make 2].

1. R1 - 5sc in mr (5sc)
2. R2 - 7sc, slst into next sc

Leave long tail for attaching.

Body

Starting with Medium Brown C1.

1. R1 - 8sc in mr (8sc)
2. R2 - 8inc (16sc)
3. R3 - [1sc, inc] x 8 (24sc)
4. R4 - [3sc, inc] x 6 (30sc)
5. R5 - 5sc, 4sc, 12sc, 4sc, 5sc (30sc)
6. R6-R10 (5 rows) - sc around (30sc)
7. R11 - [3sc, dec] x 6 (24sc)
8. R12 - [1sc, dec] x 8 (16sc)
9. R13 - 4sc, 3sc, 5sc, 3sc, 15sc (16sc)

Stuff body.

1. R14 - 8dec (8sc)

*You may need to add in a sc or 2 to make your start point of the next row the centre of the head.

Body Continued

1. R15 - 2inc, CC2, 4inc, CC1, 2inc (16sc)
2. R16 - [1sc, inc] x2, CC2, [1sc, inc] x4, CC1, [1sc, inc] x2 (24sc)
3. R17 - [2sc, inc] x2, CC2, [2sc, inc] x4, CC1, [2sc, inc] x2 (32sc)
4. R18 - 2sc, CC2, 5sc, CC1, 10sc (32sc)

Before we start the decreases, we need to add the eye patches and safety eyes.

Once you have secured your patches, continue below.

1. R23 - [2sc, dec] x8 (24sc)
2. R24 - [1sc, dec] x8 (16sc)
3. R25 - 8dec (8sc)

Stuff head, fasten off and weave in your ends.

Attaching Eye Patches

The part of the eye patch where the 5dc's are will be facing each other on the face, with the R2 7sc pointing towards the top of the head. This means that one of your eye patches will be wrong side facing out.

Place safety eye through the stitch that the five dc's go into. The safety eyes need to be inserted on R19, place them on the 3rd sc on either side of the colour change. Pop the safety eye backs on (this will secure the patches onto the face), then using the long tail of the patch, sew around the edges attaching them to the face.

Strawberry Hat

Starting with your Strawberry colour C4.

1. Fasten off, weave in your ends.

Strawberry Stem

Starting with Stem colour C5.

1. R1 - 5sc in mr (5sc)
2. R2-R4 (3 rows) - sc around (5sc)
3. R5 - [ch4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2s down ch, sc in same base stitch, slst] repeat until you have 5 stems.

Fasten off, leave a long tail and use this to attach to the top of the hat.

Details

Use your seed colour to embroider little seeds over your strawberry hat. I did little V shapes.

Use C7 to embroider a nose between the eyes over two stitches and a little smile underneath.

To style the brim of the strawberry, you can either fold the row of dc's inward or outward.

Let the leg fall straight and sew the feet together; the fold of the legs should look like...

Halloween Wreath Free Pattern

 

Supplies:

• Yarn 4/ Medium Weight Yarn in...
  • Black, orange, and white
• 4mm Crochet Hook
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Stuffing
• 10 inch wreath
• Mesh for wreath in black and purple (5 yards in purple, 10 yards in black)

Additional Information:

• Difficulty: Intermediate

Before we get started...

You will need a wreath. I bought a foam wreath (10 inches) from Dollar Tree. However, a wire wreath is better suited for the frilly wreath we'll be doing.

There are video tutorials online showing how to put mesh around a wire wreath, but I will show you how I did mine with a foam wreath.

You'll need colorful mesh to go around the wreath. I got 2 rolls in black and 1 in purple from Dollar Tree as well. Each roll has 5 yards.

Let's Get Started!

We will first start by making a shoe, this shoe will lead into the lead. We will then make a second leg and crochet both legs together to form the waist area. After this we will make the curly part of the shoe, the frilly edging around the bloomers, and put the mesh around the wreath. Last, we will attach the witch to the wreath!

Note:

Some of the pictures show a red shoe. This is because in some of the demo photos using black yarn, it was too dark to see the stitches, so I used the red shoe photos so you can see what I'm doing easier.

Let's get started!

Shoe: (Make 2)

In Black

1. Round 1: Ch 22. Dc in the 3rd Ch from the hook. Dc in the next 18 Ch. Dc 3 times in the last Ch. Now turn the chain to the opposite side, where we haven't worked any double crochets yet. Dc in the next 18 st.
2. Round 2: * 2 Dc in the next st, 1 Dc in the next 4 st* 8 times.
3. Round 3: In the BLO (Back Loop Only) Sc in the next 48 st.
4. Round 4-6: In BOTH Loops, Sc all around.
5. Round 7: Sc in the next 17 st, Repeat Dec, Sc in the next st 6 times. Sc in the next 13 st.
6. Round 8: Sc in the next 17 st, Dec 6 times, Sc in the next 13 st.
7. Round 9: Sc in the next 16 st. Count the next 9 st and Sc into that 9th st. Sc in the next 11 st.
8. Round 10: Sc in the next 16 st. Sc in the next st that connects the shoe. Sc in the next 11 st.
9. Round 11-13: Sc all around.
10. Stuff the shoe here. Now we will sew the front hole of the shoe closed. Take a needle with red yarn and sew through the stitches that align.
11. Grab both tail ends of yarn and pull firmly at the same time to tighten the yarn. Now tie each tail end of yarn into firm knots and bring into the shoe to hide.

Now we make the leg. It's easy, but we make frequent color changes.

14. Round 14: Change to orange. In the BLO Sc all around.
15. Round 15: In BOTH Loops, Sc all around.
16. Round 16-17: Change to black. Sc all around.
17. Round 18-19: Change to orange. Sc all around.
18. Round 20-21: Change to black. Sc all around.
19. Round 22: Change to orange. Sc all around.
20. Round 23: Repeat Inc, Sc 3 7 times.
21. Round 24-25: Change to black. Sc all around.
22. Round 26-27: Change to orange. Sc all around.
23. Round 28-29: Change to black. Sc all around.
24. Round 30-31: Change to orange. Sc all around.
25. Round 32: Change to black. Repeat Inc, Sc 4 7 times.
26. Round 33: Sc all around.
27. Round 34: Change to orange. Inc, Sc 5 7 times.
28. Round 35: Sc all around.
29. Round 36-37: Change to black. Sc all around.
30. Round 38-39: Change to orange. Sc all around.
31. Round 40: Change to white. In the BLO. Inc, Sc 4 9 times. Inc in the next st, Sc in the next 3.
32. Round 41-48: In BOTH Loops, Sc all around.

Here is where we will do a different pattern depending on which leg you're making:

1. First leg, Round 49: In BOTH Loops, Sc all around. Finish off the first leg here, keep the stitch marker in this leg, we will need it later. Stuff now.
2. Second leg, Round 49: Sc in the next 7 st. Take the first leg made and count to the 47th stitch made in the last round.

Next we will Sc going through BOTH the first and second leg.

While your hook is still in the working loop of the second leg, also insert your hook into that 47th stitch on the first leg. Now insert hook into the next stitch of the first leg. Yarn over and pull up a loop.

Yarn over and pull through both loops at the same time. This makes 1 single crochet.

Continue working through BOTH the first and second leg. Sc in the next 10 st.

Continuing on the second leg (the left leg), Sc in the next 41 st.

Round 50:

Sc in the next 7 st. Now we will work on the other leg. Sc in the next 48 st. Now we meet the other leg. Sc in the next 41 st.

Round 51-60:

Sc all around. Stuff here. Continue stuffing after each round.

61. In the BLO, Dec, Sc 6 12 times.
62. In BOTH loops, Dec, Sc 5 12 times.
63. Dec, Sc 4 12 times.
64. Dec, Sc 3 12 times.
65. Dec, Sc 2 12 times.
66. Dec, Sc 1 12 times.
67. Dec all around.
68. Dec all around.

Finish off and sew closed.

Shoe Tip:

In Black

1. Round 1: 6 Sc into a Magic Ring.
2. Round 2: Inc, Sc in the next st all around.
3. Round 3-4: Sc all around.
4. Round 5-7: Sc in the next 3 st. SISt in the next 3 st. Sc in the next 3 st.

Pin this piece to the tip of the shoe as shown. Sew on, don't stuff. Weave in ends.

Bloomers Frilly:

In White

Place your hook into the loop we left from Round 40. Yarn over with white and pull through the loop. Ch 3. Make 2 Dc into that same st. Make 3 Dc into each all around. Once done, finish off and weave in ends.

Repeat the process shown above for the other leg.

At this point, we're now done with crocheting the witch!

Now what we need to do is make the witch's leg bend, then put mesh on the wreath, and finally, attach the witch to the wreath. Let's move on to the next part!

Leg Assembly:

In Orange

To make the witch look like she's fallen in the wreath, we need to bend her leg slightly. Here is how we do that!

Insert needle with green yarn into the 5th white stripe on the right leg, and pull needle out a stitch to the left. Reinsert needle on the 3rd right stripe, lining up to where you'd previously pulled in and out the needle. Reinsert needle on the 5th white stripe, next to where you previously had sewed. Pull the needle out about 2 stitches to the left. Reinsert needle into the 3rd stripe, next to where you previously had sewed. Pull the needle out about 2 stitches to the left.

Repeat this process until you've sewed the back of the leg. Pull both tail ends of yarn firmly at the same time to tighten the leg. Tie the ends of yarn into firm knots and weave in to hide.

Wreath Assembly:

If you know how to make your own wreath, feel free to do so! However, I'm not very experienced in wreath making so I just made do with the supplies I had.

Take a wreath (I am using a foam wreath from Dollar Tree, they also have wire wreaths that are better suited for making frilly wreaths like this.) Now take mesh and bunch it up at the very tip and place it on the wreath. Place a pin to secure this mesh, try to make sure the pin goes through all layers of the mesh.

Grab a section of the mesh and bring it to close to the previous mesh you pinned, it should make what looks like a loop. Bunch this area up close to the wreath, and place a pin going through all layers of the mesh. Repeat this process all around. I did purple mesh first and closer to the center, then repeated the same process with black mesh at the outside of the wreath.

Attaching witch to wreath:

We will attach the witch to the wreath by tying her to it. This secures it really well and you won't see the yarn as long as you use a color that matches your wreath's mesh.

I did this step on the top part of the witch, though you could also do it to the sides of the witch if you wanted it extra secure.

Take a 8" piece of yarn and place it on a needle. Bring this yarn through the wreath as shown. Insert the needle through the elf and pull the needle out about 4 stitches to the left. This yarn through now be at the top of the wreath. Grab both tail ends of yarn and pull them very firmly so the witch is close to the wreath. Tie these tail ends of yarn firmly together a few times and cut the excess yarn.

Repeat this a total of 2 times on the left and right side of the witch, as well as once at the top of the witch.

Done!

If you made this wreath I would LOVE to see it! You can show me by posting a photo in the comments below this post!